The Cliffs of Moher and Bunratty Castle Medieval Banquet - Day 5

The day started off a little drizzly but cleared up as we drove through a lot of little towns making our way to the Atlantic Coast again. We passed old beautiful cemeteries and churches, and fun iconic pieces of Irish culture.

Brittany and I were in the very front seat behind Pat so we were able to see quite a bit of good scenery.  We were in County Clare on the east coast of the island.  We stopped on the south side of River Shannon before crossing it on the ferry.  It was quite interesting to load the bus onto the ferry.  It was windy and cold but there was the slightest chance to see a school of dolphins that swim in the river so I had to try and catch glimpse of that, I mean come on, Irish dolphins?!  Unfortunatley I didn't see them but I did manage to see few lighthouses instead.

The Tarbert-Killimer ferry on the River Shannon

Once across the river we drove off the ferry and made our way to the absolutely beautiful and majestic Cliffs of Moher - these cliffs soar as high as 650 feet up!  We had to hold onto one another because the wind gusts were probably at least 70 mph, it was crazy!  None the less it didn't stop me from climbing up for the view.  

It was something to see even with the wind spraying from the Atlantic up over the cliffs. I opened my backpack to put my camera away and take the iPad out for some pics and my postcard to Grandma blew into the cliffs so I bought her one there and sent that instead! 

Gram's postcard in the Cliffs of Moher

The pictures of the Cliff's might be a little blurry because I could literally not stay still.  There were exhibits inside the visitors center but by the time I had lunch and got some souvenirs, it was time to board the coach again.

We drove into the town of Bunratty, just a small little town, where we stayed at the Bunratty Castle Hotel. It was a really stunning hotel with an old, super cool looking, cemetery right behind it.
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Cemetery behind Bunratty Castle Hotel

Needless to say I had to go traipse through in search of a Flynn but didn't find one.  I went to the lobby to try to get on wifi because I really hadn't had good connections in anyplace we'd been and quite frankly I was having Words With Friends withdrawal. No, I mean I needed to try and Skype with my husband :)  No luck at this one either so why not join some of the Boston crew for Irish coffees in the bar, which was about the only way I could get Jameson down :). There was a small shopping center in town but I did not need to go there so Morgan and I walked over to Durty Nelly's, the Original Nelly's, where we were looking for her birthday boyfriend. Dirty 30 at Durty Nelly's for Michael seemed pretty appropriate! 

After a pint of Kilkenny I needed to get back to the Hotel to catch the coach because we were going to the Bunratty Castle for a medieval banquet dinner show which was a lot of fun, right in the Great Hall of the castle and it was quite medieval!

Bunratty Castle

The banquet started with a reception where we enjoyed Bunratty Mead-delicious Honey wine-and listened as the Butler told the history of Bunratty and the Lords and Lady's were a'singin.
 

There were a number of performers who were also our waitstaff.  We had bread and wine, delicious spiced parsnip soup without spoons, super salty spare ribs and really good chicken with apple mead sauce and vegetables without silverware. They did give us spoons for the rastin dessert which was a mousse with a biscuit base and really good. 

After dinner most of us headed back to Durty Nelly's.  I was just thankful to get out and get fresh air, I practically stripped down at the banquet because it was so unseasonable warm in February in Ireland.  My sweaters and boots were just too much because I was so seriously warm all the time and I can only take so much off.  I stood at the door of Nelly's trying to ask for a cover charge from everyone but all I really wanted was the air, which I got, but no money. :)  It was just such a fun time though, meeting such great people from all over and different ages. I didn't really know what to expect, just like we didn't know what to expect on our Christmastime Cruise.  Everyone on this trip was American, I was the only one that didn't actually live there.  There were honeymooners (Ray and Leah who were specially picked at the banquet to sit in "high seats" at the long table and have a little participation!), kids with their parents and grandparents, teenagers, 20 somethings, 30 somethings, 40 and so on and then there was Mary - the leader of the Boston group- and at 84 years young is more of a spitfire than most of us.  And of course Pops, gotta love Pops.  Larry, Larry Jr., and Larry III were quite the comical crew.  Pops is in his 80's as well and obviously he's joined by his son and grandson.  Irish boys from Yonkers, they were great.  Pops dancing at Nelly's may have been the highlight of my night but it was also pretty fun when Mary grabbed me for an Irish jig too!  Another night of a few hours of sleep but so what, I was in pubs in Ireland with people that were strangers 5 days prior but now felt like family, I loved this trip and I love Ireland!

Blarney Castle, Killarney and the Ring of Kerry - Days 3 & 4

On the road to Killarney - Wednesday February 21st

It was an early morning start to a long day on the bus.  We had a full group, 45 people on a 49 passenger bus so as a solo traveller I was seat mates with the threesome-Brittany and her mom Judy, and their friend Mari, and luckily still in front of my former seat mates Carol and Kathy - some of my faves from Boston.  It was a fun ride through the countryside and the scenery was just everything that I ever thought it was going to look like and more!  The sheep in the fields and meadows, the stone walls and old ruins, the greenery and mountains popping into view - it was just gorgeous! 

When I think of Ireland this is it!

We stopped into Blarney around lunchtime and made our way up to the Blarney Castle where I had absolutely no intention of kissing the Blarney Stone but after climbing the crooked narrow steps and seeing that it wasn't really a big deal, in terms of height and claustrophobia, I forgave the germ factor and did it anyway!  I even bought the €10 picture of proof that I did it.  I really can't believe I did it but I did and it wasn't too bad and this isn't the pic that I bought (below), Larry III took it - naturally I rubbed hand sanitizer on my mouth afterwords and spit every chance I had.

I went through the Blarney Woolen Mills, Ireland's oldest mill, where I had to make the toughest decision that I had to make all week of which beautiful sweater would be going home with me.  I'm quite happy with my selection!

It took me a while to find "the one" and I'm so glad I did, I love it!

Brittany and I spent most the time on the bus snoozing or chatting over our tour guide and driver, Pat, while trying not to miss a chance at snapping a picture of sheep or something of significance that Pat was mentioning.  We stopped in front of the Rock of Cashel, a beautiful historic church in the Plain of Tipperary that I would have loved to be have been able to spend some time at but we got back on the road. 

The Rock of Cashel

We got into the most adorable Irish town of Killarney around 5:00 and the sky was looking ugly so I didn't take the opportunity to walk around.  I settled in since we were there two nights and then headed down to the bar to catch up with my fellow travelers.

I have to say, as skeptical as I was at first about the solo trip, everyone welcomed me.  It was truly been a blessing.  Sure, at first there was the "oh you're by yourself (imagine sad face)??" but then after chatting with me they praised me and were envious of my courageousness.  As usual, I talked with everyone and met some great people.  Being a relatively small group we had the opportunity to get to know each other quite well.  Funny, there are a huge number of New Yorkers and east coasters on this trip.  A lovely group from Boston has been a blast to talk with!  Others from Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Florida, Colorado, California, Vermont, and of course various parts of NY have been so wonderful to chat with and get to know as well.

Group photo but missing 10 people :(

We had a very nice but late dinner in our hotel and then headed out to some of the local pubs to get a taste of the real Irish living :). Most places offer music and I'm sure the later you are at a place the more rowdier and crazier it gets.  We only made it to a few places before heading to the hotel bar for a shot of Baby Guinness and a nightcap before hitting the sheets. 12:30 is too late to head to bed when we have to be at breakfast at 7:15 in the morning!

Larry, Larry II, Larry III, Brittany, Judy, Mari and then Shawna goes to bed...

The Ring of Kerry and Killarney - Wednesday February 22nd

Unfortunately it was a rainy day in Ireland :( but it didn't stop the scenery from being any less beautiful.  We passed though the River Laune region had views of the Irish mountains, the Macgillycuddys Reeks where Ireland's highest mountain, Carrauntoohil resides.

We stopped for pictures at a beautiful mountain view of Lough.

In the town of Kells on Dingle Bay we visited a sheep farm and it was the most interesting experience!  The shepherd, Brendan Ferris, used special whistles, verbal calls and hand signals to tell the Border Collies to move the sheep across the hillside.  It was so cool to see the process.  The wind was bitter and it was drizzly but it didn't matter, to be able to see that was really cool. The selected sheep that the shepherd showed us would be sheared in June or July when the weather was nice and their wool would be used for tweed products. 

Brendan Ferris with is 2 Border Collies and selected group of sheep for our demonstration.

We drove out onto the Valentia Island and stopped at the Skellig Experience Center. We watched a short film about Skellig Michael, a jagged pyramid of an island  that is called the most fantastic and impossible rock in the world.  It is over 700' tall and about a mile around and was first inhibited by 6th century Christian monks.  The monks chiseled the 600 steps and Monastery out of solid rock over 1000 years ago.  It was an unbelievable sight (in the video) and something that I would love to go back and experience in person.  Boat trips from the town of Portmagee can be taken to both Skellig Michael and by the Little Skellig which is smaller than Michael and protected by law from visitors because it is home to a huge colony on gannets which are large seagulls with 6' wing spans. 

Back on the mainland we ate lunch in Portmagee at Moorings Guest House and then continued our trip around the ring.

Portmagee, Ireland - small fishing village next to Valentia Island

We saw a rainbow on our drive.  It was faint but I was sure looking for a pot of gold, or at least a leprechaun.  There was a short coffee/bathroom stop in the colorful town of Sneem, a photo stop at Moll's Gap and the Black Valley which was the last place in Ireland to get electricity in 1978.  There are 23 families there that are pretty much removed from everyday life...um can you say "The Village?".   Another quick photo stop was at a viewpoint of the three lakes of Killarney as we entered Killarney National Park that covers 26,000 acres. 

Moll's Gap and the Three Lakes of Killarney

Wednesday night we dined in the hotel and then headed out to the Sheehan's Pub to get some seats for the night since there was entertainment coming in.  The music is just so great to listen to. At first there was a two man band with the fiddles and guitar I think then a rock band came in that played a lot of American songs in an Irish accent, it was great.  

It was late and another early morning was on the horizon so I called it a night in the fun town of Killarney.

As usual, I've captioned the pictures with much more detail so be sure to click on the link if you can't read them!

Dublin, Ireland - Shawna's solo vaca with CIE - Days 1 & 2

It was definitely a challenge to embark on a solo vacation but after 2 days in Dublin I was just having so much fun! I did miss Dave and wish that we were sharing the experience together and it was a little weird when eating by myself or sitting next to someone I don't know on the bus but it all went good!   Like I have ever had a problem making new friends!

The flight from FRA to DUB is quick, only about 2 hours and luckily I had a shuttle pick me up from the house and drop me right off which was great. Aer Lingus is a nice airline but no drinks or snacks on short haul flights, which is probably typical for inter-European travel. Getting into Dublin was neat, flying into the island country was beautiful and I really can't wait to see more of it! 

The east coast of Ireland

I took a bus to the Burlington Hotel because I missed the free shuttle provided by CIE Tours International, due to my flight getting into too late, but it worked out fine. I checked in and directly headed on foot to check out the city and try to get a tour at Trinity College to see the world famous Book of Kells.

Trinity College Buildings "Heaven" (dining hall on left) and "Hell" (examination building on right) - duplicate buildings.

This has one of the worlds greatest research libraries holding over 200,000 printed books and manuscripts from Ireland. Since 1801 it has had the right to claim a free copy of all British and Irish publications under the relevant copyright acts and has stock of nearly 3 million volumes! The quick campus tour is led by History students and was fun. It's a beautiful old college founded on 1952 by Queen Elizabeth I to establish a Protestant way of thinking. Catholics were not really allowed and women weren't enrolled until 1904, now the population of about 17,000 students is dominated 65% by women and 70% by Catholics! Our nice little guide (who's completely Irish name is now where to be found in my full of too much information brain) led us to the Old Library that holds the Book of Kells and I have to say, the actual book was really anti-climactic for me. This book, for those that don't know, contains the four gospels, in Latin and was probably produced somewhere in the 9th century by monks from the island of Iona. It was sent to Dublin in 1653 for reasons of security during the Cromwellian period. it then came to Trinity College through the agency of Henry Jones after he became bishop of Meath in 1661. What was more impressive to me is the Long Room (that holds all of those super old books!) and boy does it sure smell like old books! It was a beautiful room though and even though photography wasn't allowed I managed to sneak one pic when the security turned around. I know, I'm such a bad ass.

The Long Room in the Old Library

After the college I wandered around the streets and visited Dublin's shopping area on Grafton Street where I actually witnessed a "Flash Mob" in the street with a singing choir and everything!

Flash Mob on Grafton Street

I walked around, bought some souvenirs, used the .20 toilet (cheaper than Germany!), then made my way back towards the hotel where I attended a Mass in a close by church. St. Mary's was very nice and so were the people, in fact a nice older man asked me if I'd like to take the gifts to the front.  Well sure, why not!  There was no music or singing but just to listen to the Priest in his Irish accent talk about the book, "The Power of Positive Thinking" in his homily was good enough for me.  It was only about a 45 minute mass!

Inside St. Mary's where I attended a lovely Irish-Catholic mass

I walked 10 minutes back to the hotel where I figured I would have dinner because there were 2 restaurants and 2 bars to choose from. The restaurants were actually closed because it was Sunday so instead I stayed in the lobby with the dozens of other guests because there was fabulous people watching due to a Peter Mark (I think it was) hair and fashion show going on at the hotel. I ordered dinner in the lobby and got to chatting with Jon and Carol who are from Syracuse, NY and live only streets away from Dave's cousins! Small world, as we usually seem to say whenever we meet people. I ordered another Bulmers Cider, which is most delicious, and headed back to my comfy bed for a good nights sleep!

February 20th

After a full breakfast Monday morning I made my way to the Hop On Hop off bus with a few other CIE travelers, Karin and Tim from Pennsylvania. We all got off at the Guinness Storehouse, which is a must-do in Ireland! 

Front of the Guinness Storehouse

I have never been a big fan of Guinness but it sure tasted good right from its origin point. The Storehouse was quite an impressive 7 story building taking you through the entire Guinness making experience right down to the tasting of delicious foods made with the dark stout. I sampled the smoked salmon and chocolate mousse that were each paired with a certain kind of Guinness - YUM!

Guinness Chocolate Mousse paired with the tastey stout

Time was running short since I had to be back at the Burlington by 2:00 for a city tour and the Hop On Hop Off was not going to get me there in time so I hopped off on the busy O'Connell Street and grabbed a cab. The driver was so nice and friendly and I just loved talking to him and hearing his Irish accent!  He has been in the States quite a few times and I was most shocked when he said that one of the places he loved was Buffalo! Niagara Falls of course...I guess I tend to forget that is what would draw people there. :)

O'Connell Street with large statue of Daniel O'Connell known as "The Liberator"

The city tour through CIE was a little bit of a duplicate from what I heard on the Hop On Hop off earlier but we visited the Dublin Castle and had a nice tour there. This was definitely not the typical castle that Dave and I have been used to seeing, but more of an embassy or palace filled with state rooms. I mostly enjoyed our guide, Jennifer, who was a lovely Irish girl with such a beautiful accent!

State Drawing Room in the Dublin Castle

After the tour we headed back to the Burlington before going to The Merry Ploughboy Pub for dinner and Irish music and dancing.

The Merry Ploughboy - about 20 minutes from Dublin

We filed into the pub and sat at the long tables where I joined a group of ladies at I hadn't met yet. Mari, from Colorado and Judy and Brittany (mom and daughter) from Florida, as well as 2 more mom and daughter combo's from NY.  My next trip is surely with my mama!  What a fun time indeed! The food was good and the entertainment was just absolutely amazing. There were 3 women and 2 men dancers who just moved so quickly, it was so beautiful. The 4 singers were just so wonderful to listen to that I could have stayed there all night drinking my Irish cider, tapping my feet swaying to the music. I thanked grandpa Flynn for giving me my Irish roots because I have never felt more like at home than anyplace I have ever been!

As usual, I've captioned the pictures with much more detail so be sure to click on the link if you can't read them!

Germany's Oldest City - Trier and a pit stop back to Idar-Oberstein

The cold weather didn't stop us from heading back to the Mosel Valley to visit Germany's oldest city, Trier.  Trier was one of the capitals of the Roman Empire and an Imperial Residence founded by Augustus in 16 B.C.


It's only a quick 1.5 hour drive from our house and we figured an easy overnight adventure.  We left Saturday morning for the lovely little hotel, Casa Chiara which is only a stone's throw away from the city's only standing Roman gate, the Port Nigra.

Port Nigra

 Originally Port Nigra was 1 of 4 gates in the four mile town wall. The other 3 were destroyed by medieval metal and stone scavengers but this one survived because it became a church, named in particular for St. Simeon who lived in the gate for 7 years before his death in 1035. This, literally, was our "gateway" to the city and the self-tour that we led ourselves on during the beautifully sunny but blustery cold day.

We walked into Market Square, or Hauptmarkt, as we've seen in almost every European town that we've toured. There is always something spectacular about the Hauptmarkt; the Town Hall, Churches, half-timbered houses, statues and figures that adorn the buildings, and the fountains. They all speak to each particular city in such a unique way that is only explainable if you are standing right there. This Hauptmarkt was home to philosopher Karl Marx for 17 years.



Hauptmarkt



We visited the oldest Christian church in Germany, the Cathedral or Dom as it is referred to.

The original Roman Cathedral was 4 times the size as the building that stands there now. The inside is lined with many altars representing the bishops, not saints, like we've seen in most of the churches we've been in. We didn't get to actually see the cathedral's most holy and important relic, the supposed Holy Robe of Christ that is kept in vault in one of the side chapels. It is a beautiful Cathedral and actually connected to the Liebfrau Church which claims to be the oldest Gothic church in Germany - dates back to 1235.

We grabbed a nice lunch at the Zom Domstein back in the Hauptmarkt - which you can see in the picture behind the fountain - where I enjoyed the area's famous Spießbraten, a delicious, marinated piece of pork or beef that is just sooooo tender.



St. Peter's Fountain

We hiked back uptown to Roman Trier's amphitheatre that was built around A.D. 200, unfortunately to find it closed. The 20,000 seat facility functioned more like what we could call a modern day outdoor concert hall rather than the blood and guts gladiator fighting spectacle that I envisioned. (I will wait for Rome for that I guess :)



The Amphitheatre from the Gate - not a very good view!

Next stop was the Imperial Baths - Kaiserthermen - built in the 1st half of the 4th century by Emperor Constantine; these were never used because the project wasn't finished when Constantine left Trier in A.D. 316. These are one of the largest thermal spas of the Roman Empire. It was fun to wander around the underground tunnels and foundations and imagine the massage rooms, saunas, steam baths and pools that existed at one time and the labor and wood that was needed to make it work! It was quite an impressive ruin.

One of the many corridors in the baths

It was getting to be shut-down time for everything...4pm...so we made our way back through town to the Basilica.  This is the largest Roman structure outside of Rome.

Konstantin Basilica

This was originally a throne room but the last emperor moved out in A.D. 395.  Kings were housed in the building in the Middle Ages and in the 12th century archbishops had taken it over turning it into a palace.  In 1856 it became a Lutheran church and it remains the leading Protestant church in Trier.  It was badly damaged by bombs in WWII - there were pictures and a timeline along one of the walls showing the different restorations throughout the past 1000 years. 

10'x'10 squares in the ceiling = about 20W x 40L Shawna's!

After the Basilica we headed towards the hotel to thaw out and relax before dinner.  We enjoyed a nice bottle of Mosel wine and dinner at Theo's which is right next to the Port Nigra gate, very convenient!  Trier was a neat little city, definitely do-able in a day or two depending on whether museum visits are in the plan.  As cold as it was, it was nice that we were not bombarded with other tourists.  The benefit of sight-seeing in the winter! We usually try to choose hotels with breakfast included so after we had that we packed up and drove to the city of Idar-Oberstein because Dave hadn't been and I posted a blog about my visit there back in October.

We primarily wanted to hike up to the Church in the Rock and the Castles that were high above the town.

Up close of the Church in the Rock

At Castle Oberstein

Castle Bosselstein sits atop the Church in the Rock but is below Oberstein

And we did!  Lucky for us it was a beautiful SUNNY day - but cold, probably about 15 degrees F. Unfortunately everything was closed for the winter, not opening back up until March 16th.  The castles were pretty cool though, amazing at how high above the town they are which is an obvious trait that we've seen in many defense castles. We climbed a little higher through the woods and found what is called the Castle Pond where people were ice skating!

Ice skaters at the Castle Pond

A nice sunny lounge chair on the hike back down!

Back at level ground we found warmth in a cozy little restaurant in Idar-Oberstein for lunch before heading back home.  It was a get-away but boy oh boy was it sure nice to get back home to heat!

LINK TO TRIER AND IDAR-OBERSTEIN PICTURES